First - again - some Swedish music,
just to cleanse the palate. If you wonder, it's Jose Gonzales, a former
Ph.D. student in biology at Gothenburg University. Although we
biologists lost a fellow researcher I'm happy he chose another path.
Before adding the next round of tasting notes from my recent trip, I might as well I'd share some thoughts on the vintage 2013 in general,
with all its limitations, based on the few tastings I managed to
squeeze in and above all, based on discussion with the growers. Still
not a humongous overview of every single corner and every producer so
please take it for what it is - at least a first data point. With
hopefully many more to come! What I find most apparent in this vintage
is the considerable difference between wine regions.
Mosel
Usually I feel it's much more homogenous so when leaving Saar after a
tasting and travelling the windling roads in the valleys towards Nahe I
know it will often be quite similar but this time there seem to have
been quite some differences. I didn't visit Pfalz but just heard that
they experienced a similar situation as in Mosel where there was
considerable rain (partly more than 400mm in August to October) and a
VERY quick harvest; in some parts of the Mosel the winemakers had
harvest their best plots in 2-3 days only. That certainly affects the
decisionmaking on what to take in and what to focus on, not to mention
the character of the wines. Hanno Zilliken and Christoph Schaefer told
the same story. They were out in the vineyards every day, tasting the
grapes, slowly following their development (like they always do) but
this time they faced some mighty challenges when they could taste one
day and feel that the ripeness was still not optimum and the acidity too
high and then the next day suddenly everywhere grapes started to ripen
ultra-fast and two days later parts of bunches were already dropping to
the ground. Hanno said it was like watching half of your harvest falling
to the ground day after day. I dared not ask him how much they could
finally harvest but based from what he told me it must have been a
reduction of more than 50% down. Christoph Schaefer said they harvested
even less than in 2010, which was a record low production year so you
might imagine how low production really is. Like one winemaker told me -
it's not really a question about if the wines will sell or not but whom
to sell to, as allocations will have to be cut drastically and it's a
matter of dividing it fairly between the wine lovers who stand in line
and hope to get some fermented juice... I asked the reason for this and
the answers seem to indicate a various of explanations that -
unfortunately - worked together to produce a record low harvest along
the Mosel and its tributaries. First a late flowering, so everyone knew
from the beginning that this will be a race to full ripeness before the
season was over, then also a highly irregular flowering, not to mention
dito fruit setting. Once off and away, there was some hail to further
reduce the yields (so the joke to Hanno that I just came down from the
Rausch vineyard cutting some bunches of grapes to help him with some
extra green-harvesting before visiting him didn't land favourably when I
visited him last year...) and then a very wet August. But then the
weather turned warmer as harvest time was approaching but just like
Hanno said - warmth during the day, rain at night didn't help either.
However, one also needs to understand the interplay between various
components. Rain doesn't necessarily mean pouring down for hours and
days; and also, scattered rain doesn't really affect the steepest plots
in the vineyards that much, where the slate ground quickly absorbs the
moisture and the wind dries out the vineyards. Only sun, day after day
isn't ideal either as moisture in the ground helps the flow of nutrient
uptake of the plant and even adds certain complexity but that aside,
what really made it somewhat problematic for the growers was the
quick ripening from one day to another as the harvest days approached.
The Schaefers reported a record fast harvest where they watched the
weather patterns closely and hurried to take in the fruit just in time
when the window of opportunity allowed for some sunny and dry days. But
just as they observed in 2010, when harvesting the bunches they realised
there were a lot of space between the grapes and once everything landed
in the harvest bins they realised that it will not offer a lot of jucie
once lightly, lightly pressed. And the quality of the jucie that
actually flowed out from the grapes...? I'll come back to that later -
this is just a general discussion on the vintage character. :-) I think
that the key this year was to keep yields low to further enhance the
core structure of the wines. Given the cool character of the vintage it
gives plenty of opportunities for the growers to make some really top
class Riesling in the lower prädikat spectrum, like Kabinett, although I
realise it won't thrill them economically since these wines sell for a
song. If harvesting with higher yields (perfectly acceptable in steep
slate soils, just look at J.J. Prüm) in a year like this, I believe you
will get sleeker and very refined wines that might still show a lovely
elegance but for my palalate, I will probably find them less
exciting than when the extract pushes the fruit characteristic into a
tight wrestlling match between the natural minerality and high acidity
that the Riesling grape potentially can offer. Overall I can't say it's a
favorite general vintage of mine along the Mosel, based on the
fact that I want riesling in the entire prädikat spectrum to consider it
a top vintage. For some of you who in general favour the more cool and
mineralic/acidic vintages like 2010, 2008 and 2004 and in particular prefer
the prädikats to have "true" ripeness levels (not a Kabinett that is a
declassified Auslese with creaminess, high sugar and predominantly
tropical fruit), I believe there will be some gems to be found. But
since many estates nowadays also focus - much more than before - on dry
wines, I feel that the highest quality hasn't been attained as I have
never liked the best Trockens from Mosel as much as those from other
German regions. Dry wines from Mosel can display a little too high and
above angular acidity already in warmer years. Again, remember...to my
palate. And who am I to say? I would like to advise the winemakers to
stick with their fruitier styled Riesling because these are some of the
best wines in the world and they are unique but they also need to
sell the wines and the demand for dry wines is as it is, so... But most
importantly, remember - this is just a first data point - there's so
much more to be discovered and tasted as the months progress. I'm
looking forward to knock on the kitchen door to the estates I already
visited, for a replay, and add to them other favourites of mine, like
van Volxem, Karthäuserhof, St Urbans-Hof, Julian Haart, AJ Adam, Schloss
Lieser, Fritz Haag, J.J. Prüm, Christoffel Erben, Merkelbach,
Selbach-Oster, Wieser-Künstler, Löwenstein. Only THEN will it be
possible to form a better opinion on the 2013 vintage in the Mosel
region. For now, I will nevertheless predict that for Mosel, 2012 was a
better overall vintage, compared to 2013.
Nahe/Rheinhessen
In Nahe and Rheinehessen there seems to be a whole different story.
Yields were down at every estate I visited, with Schäfer-Fröhlich
reporting the least drop in production while Dönnhoff had a lower yield
along its entire range and Keller too. Especially at Keller you notice
this in the "cheaper" wines - there is so much more stuffing in them
this year. I can't wait to write my impressions of individual wines as I
have some surprising favourites! Compared to the Mosel region, there
was less rain (around 200-250 mm from August until the end of October,
which I would say is quite normal for this region) which allowed for a
prolonged harvest period and...this might explain why I found the
quality to be absolutely outstanding in some of the estates. I believe
it gave the growers exactly what they wanted: a slower ripening while
the cooler nights allowed for a natural preservation of acidity and
sweetness as the grapes were allowed to hang and harvested with that
extra fresh juiciness found in these stylistic types of vintages. I
received photos from winemakers who were harvesting under clear-blue
skies while I listened to inside reports from pickers I know personally,
who were working out in the vineyards and reported they were freeezing
their fingers off while harvesting in cool mornings; describing the
grapes as small, yellow and bursting with flavour like small champagne
bubbles. You can probably imagine how that translated into grape quality... Oh boy.
For those who are addicted to the sweeter stuff, Dönnhoff picked
Eiswein quite early, I think it might have been in November, and holy
smoke...! Oh well, I shouldn't get into tasting notes here.
And then there's Weingut Keller... I know they are mostly famous for
their otherwordly dry GGs but I keep nagging my perpetual mantra to
those who care to listen that this small family estate is producing some
of the best sweet wines on Planet Earth and this vintage in
particular seemed to favour sweeter prädikats. Then of course,
Klaus-Peter isn't the economically smartest guy in the world - where he
could harvest for top notch GG juice and sell at record high prices he's
rather bloody obstinate, like a donkey if I'm allowed to make a
comparison, for prefering to harvest more Kabinett and Spätlese from his
cult vineyards just because Mother Nature tells him this is a vintage
that offered the best potential for these kind of wines. Don't they
teach economics at that supposedly famous enological school in
Geisenheim? Nevertheless, Keller was able to make Trockenbeerenauslese
from Morstein and Absterde, as well as Beerenauslese from Pettenthal and
Hubacker. What is kind of fun and interesting (for Sheldon Cooper-like
wine buffs like me) is that the sweeter wines are basket pressed since
the 2012 vintage. Klaus-Peter restored a more than 100-year old press
and seems to feel that this old technique really provides him with great
quality juice. I believe him... When sitting down with Tim Fröhlich and
Helmut Dönnhoff you can't avoid noticing that glimps of keen
satisfaction in their eyes. They seem to have been given a harvest just
like they prefer from Mother Nature and based on the wines tasted I
cannot but agree with Terry Theise prediction that Nahe hit the
sweetspot in this vintage. I believe some wines will be classics. Based
on discussions with Klaus-Peter Keller, the overall assessment seems to
be in line with his observations. 2013 is a cool vintage with prolonged
maturation where those who picked early to secure the harvest will have
good wines but those who work the vineyards and carefully followed the
ripeness and even took some chances towards the end were gratified with
some outstanding juice. I believe that if you like cooler vintages like
2002, 2008, 2010 and 2012, you will LOVE 2013 from these two regions.
Based on the early tastings it's a very soil-driven vintage, producing
very mineralic and precise wines with considerable finess and elegance
already at the entry level wines all the way up to the GG level. I will
go out on a limb here and claim that for some of the producers, some of the wines are even better in 2013 than the stellar 2012 vintage... Don't trust me on this one - it's only my palate
- taste them for yourself and form your own opinion. And please share!
It will be fun to compare impressions. While I think that 2012 might
have the upper hand in Mosel, I believe it will be a tight race in Nahe
and Rheinhessen. Now HERE'S my problem... When tasting early I usually always prefer
warmer vintages like 2005, 2007, 2009 and 2011 but when tasting them a
few years later I tend to prefer the cooler vintages 2008 and 2010. When
newly released, I downright didn't like the 2004s that much and didn't
buy as much as I usually do and today I sit here with these 2004s in my
glass, crying...not knowing if the tears derive from how utterly
compelling they taste or from sadness that I didn't scoop up more when I
had the chance.
Speaking of a ten year old vintage, I was invited to this absolutely
wonderful tasting in Saarbrücken where 2004 was the theme among some
serious Riesling aficionados. Imagine...the following wines and little
Miran, like a child in a candy shop where the owner is leaning down and
asking: You can taste anything you like - what would you prefer to start with?
2004 Heymann-Löwenstein Riesling Uhlen R
2004 Reinhold Haart Piesporter Goldtröpchen Riesling Grosses Gewächs
2004 Van Volxhem Riesling Schartzhofberger Pergentsknopp P
2004 Emrich-Schönleber Riesling Halenberg Grosses Gewächs (Auction)
2004 Dönnhoff Hermannshöhle Riesling Grosses Gewächs
2004 Koehler Ruprecht Kallstater Saumagen Riesling Auslese Trocken
2004 Bürklin-Wolf Pechstein Riesling Grosses Gewächs
2004 Mosbacher Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Grosses Gewächs
2004 Keller Kirchspiel Riesling Grosses Gewächs
2004 Keller Hubacker Riesling Grosses Gewächs
2004 Keller Morstein Riesling Grosses Gewächs
2004 Keller Riesling G-Max
2004 Wittman Morstein Riesling Grosses Gewächs
2004 Künstler Hölle Auslese Riesling Trocken Goldkap
2004 Breuer Riesling Nonnenberg
2004 J. Ruck Julius-Echter Riesling Grosses Gewächs
2004 Alzinger Loibenberg Riesling Smaragd
2004 Prager Wachstum Bodenstein Riesling Smaragd
2004 Rudi Pichler Achleiten Riesling Smaragd
2004 F.X. Pichler Kellerberg Riesling Smaragd
2004 Nikolaihof Riesling Steiner Hund
2004 Trimbach Riesling Cuvée Fréderic Émile
2004 Trimbach Riesling Clos Ste Hune
I realise I have a lot of hand-written tasting notes waiting to be digitalised and shared on this forum...
Finally some more music. Such a pity you don't speak Swedish...
Rememeber, this is live. I was thinking about so many recording
artists out there who really can't sing live but who are packaged into
something commercially viable nevertheless because you can fix most
things in the studio.
And thanks for listening.
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