Very strange indeed. And totally unexpected.
Now why would anyone fake a not-so-expensive...Brunello? The 2007 Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino.
Pulled this from the shelf and when opening it I noticed that the bottom of the cork had almost no colour. Just a slight taint of pale red that didn't really stick to the cork's surface but rather ran off, like water - just as if it had been bottles minutes ago. Strange. Normally the part in contact with the cork is tained very dark or darkly red (unless it's a watery Pinot of course) but this was after all a Sangiovese. Not the lightest coloured grape on earth... No apparent off aromas. On pouring the wine into a gladd I noticed that it had a very ligh red colour. Looked more like a Nebbiolo than a Sangiovese. What the h...? While preparing something to eat in the kitchen I took a sip and it felt very light and elegant. Like a table wine or perhaps a Rosso di Montalcino but even these wines have some considerable colour. So what was this? A fake Brunello?
The mystery deepend upon eating while sipping on the wine. The lightness of the red colour remained but the as time went buy the impression on the palate changed. It expanded and became broader and deeper, becoming even what I would describe as rich. Sweet red berries, a very velvety texture and an ever increasing infusion of spices made the wine grow and transformed it from something I would call a simple table wine into something that is an exceptional drinking experience. With more layers of spices, dried flowers, herbs and sweet cherries it expanded on the palate, gained volume and came together in a very rich, broadening style of succulent red fruit mixes with spices and a most pleasing energetic nerve throughout the texture, combining velvety tannins with more rigour towards the very persistent and rich finish.
In any case, a very different creature to the marvelous 2006 version of the same wine, which had much, much darker fruit (and colour!) while being as spicy, rich and balanced you always hope for in a Sangiovese.
So what on earth was this all about? Is it the bottle? The vintage? And how could it metaporphose into such a beauty after having been almost forgettable initially?