...down my throat. To offer, in the name of science, some data points on
their current developmental stage. Good for them. But before the Jury
results from my sensory receptors, some Swedish music.
Having said that, here are the results from the Swedish Jury.
2005 Chateau L'Arrosée
The first thing that comes to my mind is...lightness. And a distinct
purity. This is a very elegant, soft-spoken red that doesn't shout out
its inner qualities but merely whispers them to its audience. I would
have thought it would provide more punch but it's almost a Burgundian
style of Bordeaux. The sentiment probably comes from the delicate
balance in the wine because behind that seductive, polished appearance
you notice layers of sweet fruit of both black and red berries that
coats your palate and makes you go back for more. Lovely texture. The
tannins provide enough structure but more than that, this wine bids you
farewell with a round, soothing feeling of...balance. Very drinkable
now. Very enjoyable. 92 points.
2010 Keller Pettenthal Riesling Grosses Gewächs
I hesitated opening this wine. For two reasons. First, my experience with the dry wines from Pettenthal by Weingut Keller is that they have always felt quite closed from the beginning. The Hipping Riesling GG
is usually open for business from day one, even sometimes jumping out
of the bottle grabbing you by the...well, you probably get the picture.
But Pettenthal, oh no, it's more the kind of the shy, modest sibling
that might have even greater potential in the long run but seldom
flashes with the crown jewels from the very start. I have the same
experience from the sweeter Rieslings from these adjacent Nierstein
vineyards. While the Hipping Kabinett or Spätlese jump out of the glass
straight into your arms, dressed to tease and charm your pants off and
having every one at the table exclaiming that this is the wine of
the evening, corresponding wines from Pettenthal seldom make a big fuss
initially but as the night progresses so does their development in the
glass and when it's time to wrap up the dinner, the guests usually point
to that bottle of Pettental and crown it King. However, in my opinion,
the slow start is even more pronounced in the dry Riesling GG from
Pettenthal. In a hurried tasting where you would taste the wines quickly
and only allocate a short time of attention to each wines, this would
even risk disappearing when compared to wines delivering more instant
gratification from the very first sip. Threfore, to me, this has always
been the wine not to gulp down with food but rather just open by itself
and drink it as is, to allow myself being immersed by its beautiful
purity. Second, in my opinion, 2010 is a brilliant vintage for many
German Rieslings and I believe they will age particularly well so I had
my doubts opening a bottle possibly "too soon". There was only one way
to find out, so I asked the person who has the strongest connection to
this particular wine, and who would thus be in the best position to
offer good advice, the winemaker himself. "KILL IT!!", was his laconic answer. So what to do? There wasn't much to discuss.
And...the wine surprised me. Already on the nose you can feel the aromas
slowly evaporating from the glass to hit your sensory glands with a
splash. First of all, smoke. That flinty version when you smash pieces
of slate until they crush and form that delicate smoky powder as a
by-product. And then a lovely bouquet of spring flowers, a complete
array of citrus fruits and a intriguing spicy aroma that I find
difficult to describe. Peeled nutmeg? Mind you, not the one bought at
the supermarket but picked up freshly straight from the rainforest
floor. Or might this be a fancier expression of simply "Asian spices"?
While impressive on the nose, it's the palate that really offers the
true fireworks. First this sensation of tangeringe. Yes, really
tangerine. And filtered red peach so as to extract the sensation of red
colour together with some of the flavors without influencing the flavour
profile too much. Oh, and in addition, those sensational flavours mixed
with that delicate nutmeg spice, which combined creates an almost
hypnotic tunnel vision as you stare bewildered at your glass, craving
for a second sip before even bothering analysing the first one. And then
the texture. Absolutely transparant purity. It's so delicate and
feather-like weightless, despite its sheer power of vibrant flavours,
that I found myself shaking my head in disbelief while staring at the
glass. How can such graceful lightness possess so much power? Impressive
fireworks here, in particular with that continuous sense of a moist,
ultra-thin coating of white peach wrapping the laser-cut core of crushed
stones. Truly impressive, especially the combination of deep, complex
layers in the texture that seem to stir the wine to alternate its
exposure of delicate fruit, spice and mineralic energy every time you
sink your teeth into this beauty. Simply stunning. 96+ points.
2010 Keller Abtserde Riesling Grosses Gewächs
I teach mathematics, physics, chemistry and biology at my school and one
thing I constantly tell my students is the importance of comparative
empiric experiments. It seems rather pointless to urge others to compare
if you don't act yourself as a good example to follow. And on that
note, I grabbed a bottle of the Abtserde GG to compare two wines from
the same grape, vintage and producer. I was very eager, above all, to
see if really could be that the signature characteristic of Abtserde
would show yet again. That sense of vibrating nervous oscillation that
seems to be encoded in this vineyard like a stamped-in signature, making
it - often - the most easy to identify in a Keller tasting. And sure
enough, it really, truly IS the first thing you notice
with this wine. Don't take my word for it - try it out yourself and
report back to this forum. It literally vibrates of high-pitched,
nervous energy as it hits the receptors on your tongue with a ticklish
sensation. Like a newly opened champagne where the fresh bubbles cleanse
your palate with a splashing wave of sparkling freshness. Really
dancing like a ballerina along the journey down your throat. More than
anything, in fact even more than the impressions of aromas or flavours,
it's this electric tension of oscillating energy that always comes out
as the most impressive character from Abtserde. To say it's one of my
favourite vineyards in the world would be a gross understatement... But,
I must say, on the opening it acted more what I expected from the
Pettenthal GG above, more shy and restrained in its aromatic profile
straight from the glass while retaining it's pronounced sappy vibrancy.
Delicate lime flavours are mixed with more mouthwatering nectarine notes
together with dusty sprinkles of limestone chalk. Extremely light and
delicate, almost to the brink of pure weightlessness. It's as if the
wine is not really there, yet it is, or more like you feel the energy
from it without pinpointing its location. If I would ever offer a wine
to Edward Witten,
it would be this one and I'm sure it would lead to some new Eureka
moments to the theory of supersymmetry and vibrating strings. How to
rate a wine with this brilliant grip and energy? I had it in the
mid-nineties and it would stay there had I not saved half the content in
the bottle in the fridge, only to have another go at it the next
evening. My immediate thought on the first sip was to look down into the
glass, then head for the fridge to look what I had been pouring. Was it
the Absterde or did I mistakenly simply grab another bottle? Nope, it's
the very same bottle but something had clearly happened to this wine
overnight. The oscillating, nervous vibrancy was there just as last
night but now with an even increased amount of energy and movement. Not
much unlike a vibrating string proposed in the M Theory.
Then, the really new costume, what was prior a rather shy, delicate
cornucopia of aromas and flavours, has now turned into an utterly
refined and smooth coating of blood orange peel sprayed with even more
spices and above all mineral dust to create a golden feeling of silky
smudge of almost tropical flavours throughout the palate. It's as if the
wine turned full-bodied with high extract while retaining a featherlike
weighlessness. Or if you will, as if gravity has no pull on the wine
since there's no mass, just a beam of laserlike photons on the finish.
This creates an elastic tension to the wine's texture that's simply
mindboggling. And before you know it, the bottle is finished. Like the
Cookie Monster you find yourself looking around for more. What an
utterly stunning wine. 98 points. While I would like to taste all
those super expensive white wine icons out there, like Montrachet, I
can't but help thinking I'm drinking some of the best white wine on
earth for the price of admission that must be only a fraction compared
to other superstars of this stratospheric level of quality.
And finally...just the conclude the same way I started this post, some absolutely stunning Swedish music (1).
And yes, a chair, a stage, no studio or electronics. Just as pure as
Keller's wines. And just as a bonus, another even more scaled-down,
version (2) and a finally, another melody, just to wrap it all up (3). I wish I would have a fraction of that talent...
Thanks for listening.
PS. By the way, on the label you won't see Abtserde but Abts E.
Because the name Abtserde is not allowed. The first action point to
repeal as soon as I become world president. Should you happen to be
interested in the history of the wine's name and origin, you can find it
here.
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